things to be careful of when swapping a 3/60 board

[Bob Cunningham]

Sun should, but very often doesn't, supply a little set of instructions
with replacement 3/60 cpu boards.  So that you, too, won't have to learn
things the hard way, here is a  rundown:

When pulling the original board out of the chasis, remember that there are
four (not just two like in the */260 */280 and similar models of Suns)
Allen-head bolts to unscrew before you can push the black plastic handles
to the outside and back out the board.  When you've pulled the old board
and extracted the new board from its anti-static bag, remember that any
time you touch these things, both you and it should be grounded together
to avoid problems with static electricity (better to be safe than
sorry...).

3/60 replacement boards come without memory.  Swap the memory daughter
boards over from your old board.  Each daughter board has two little holes
at the end of the edge connector into which little plastic latches drop.
I find it easiest to pull memory boards starting from the front of the cpu
board to the back, using a small jewler's screwdriver to unlatch and
gently pry up each end of each individual daughter board.  When you've
swapped all the daughter boards (they go in much more easily than they
come out), be sure and check the jumper settings (located elsewhere on the
cpu board) for the amount of memory you've installed (replacement boards
usually seem to be set to 4Mbytes, but check it anyways).  Later, you'll
probably have to also set the memory size in the EEPROM (see below).

Replacement boards come without ID proms.  Use an IC puller or whatever
and pull the ID prom off your original board (it's U224), plug it into the
replacement board (keeping a sense of where "pin 1" is located, don't put
it in 180 degrees off).  Among other things, the ID prom contains the
ethernet address of the machine (its identity, so to speak).

Replacement boards come without color daughter boards.  If you have a
3/60C system, remove the little blanking panel on the replacement board
where the four BNC connecters will go, then remove the daughter board from
your old board (unscrew the four BNC bezels, remove two screws at the
other end of the daughter board, very carefully pry the board out of the
little edge connector underneath, then lift up; the BNC connectors come
along with the daughter board). and put it into the replacement board.

At this point, you can stick the new board into your 3/60 box...but you'll
almost certainly have some EEPROM changes to make.  If you're lucky (you
won't be if you've replaced a color daughter board) you'll be able to get
the console monitor to come up.  If not, you'll have problems
interactively changing the contents of your EEPROM.  The secret is to
connect up a vanilla ASCII terminal set to 9600bps to RS232 port ttya (use
a null modem cable, not a straight thru one, pins 2 & 3 need to be
reversed) and set the NORM/DIAG switch to DIAG.  Then interrupt the boot
when you get the "push any character within 10 seconds" message, and back
out to the boot prompt ">".

See the PROM User's Manual (much nicer in the SunOS4.0 documentation kit)
for details, but the EEPROM locations you'll want to check are:

	4		Installed memory (don't be surprised if this
			happens to be zero...and you get "Checking
			0 memory"), set it to the number of Mbytes
			of memory you have.

	16		Monitor screen size (you probably want a
			0 here).

	18		Boot device  (if zero, will poll, and thus
			probably try to boot off of le() instead
			of sd() if you have a SCSI disk), leave
			at 0, or set to 12 if you have a local disk.

	19 and 1A	Boot device address (need to set this if
			you have a local disk, see EEPROM manual).

	1F		Primary terminal (0 is black & white monitor,
			12 is color monitor, which you'll almost
			certainly have to change it to if you
			swapped a color daughter board over).

After you've got all the EEPROM settings right, boot and enjoy.