UNIX pc 2nd drive modifications (was Re: P5.1 upgrade instructions)
John B. Milton
jbm at uncle.UUCP
Mon Jul 24 18:56:59 AEST 1989
In article <795 at bagend.UUCP> jan at bagend.UUCP (Jan Isley) writes:
>In article <924 at icus.islp.ny.us>, lenny at icus.islp.ny.us (Lenny Tropiano)writes:
>> In article <792 at bagend.UUCP> jan at bagend.UUCP (Jan Isley) writes:
[ what is and is not needed to install John Milton's hard disk board ]
Well, I started this mess via e-mail by not being specific enough, so let me
clear things up a bit. The work needed to install my hard drive board is mostly
an extension of the work needed to do the "P5.1 Field Service Upgrade". If you
already have the P5.1 upgrade installed, the only work you have to "undo"
before you begin installing my board is remove the PAL. This is very easy if
you put a socket in, but very difficult if you didn't. I don't blame you if
you did, because they didn't tell you to in the P5.1 instructions.
There ARE some lines used in the P5.1 upgrade, which are NOT needed by my board.
I purposely designed around these lines so that installation would be as easy
as possible. The other reason I left the P5.1 lines alone is so that, if the
installation screws up, you can easily back out to the P5.1 level. The three
wires not needed by my board are:
27P-4 to 27P-19
27P-1 to 27P-12
27P-17 to JH1-2
The first two are short inter-connections on 27P, the third one is the 4th head
select bit connection to the hard drive control signal connector. My board
works just fine if leave them in or take them out or don't put them in in the
first place. As I said above, I DO recommend that you put them in, to be more
compatable with the P5.1 upgrade.
Below are my current installation instructions, first draft. Everyone please
e-mail comments to me. I am looking for more how-to stuff, and hints.
---
Hard Disk Upgrade Installation
Shopping list:
1. Small and medium phillips screw drivers.
2. Small flat blade screw driver, for serial cables.
3. Medium plyers or small adjustable wrench.
4. Needle-nose plyers.
5. Diagonal cutters.
6. Dental tools.
7. Some scrap wire or small rope, see step 17 below.
8. Small soldering iron, 15-40 watts, grounded tip. No 200 watt guns folks!
9. A grounded wrist strap. Use the right part so you don't get fried. There
is usually a 1M ohm resistor in series with these things to make sure only
high voltage static electricity is conducted from your body. If you like to
live dangerously, forget the strap.
10. An anti-static mat or a large piece of anti-static (pink) packing bubbles.
11. Solder sucker. I do not recommend solder wick. If you haven't used one of
these before, I suggest practicing on a junk PC board before using it on
you mother (board!). Any board from an IBM PC will do :) See solder sucking
in step 28 below.
12. Solder, as fine as possible, 60/40 lead/tin, rosin core.
13. Small spool of wire wrapping wire. The kind with plastic insulation!
14. A wire wrapping wire stripping tool.
15. 1 foot of bell wire (20 gauge).
16. 2 feet of twisted pair bell pair or very fine coax.
17. Wire glue to hold down wire wrapping wire.
18. Cup or tray for screws. You may want to use a bunch of little ones.
19. Magnifying glass for checking for solder shorts. One of those big swing arm
one with the round flourecent lights in it is ideal.
20. One 20 pin socket. You get what you pay for.
21. One double pin socket.
22. One 20 wire ribbon cable, 6 inches long, 20 pin DIP headers on each end.
23. One .01 micro-farad bypass capacitor.
24. A 34 wire ribbon cable to go from the mother board hard drive connector to
the HD board, female header on both ends.
25. A 34 wire ribbon cable to go from the HD upgrade board to wherever your
hard drives are going to live, with a female header connector on one end and
as many (1-4) 34 pin edge connectors towards the other end as you will need.
26. As many 20 wire ribbon cables as you will have hard drives, female header on
one end, 20 pin edge on the other end.
27. An appropriate box and power supply. I suggest an old PC-XT case and a 150
to 200 watt power supply. The old 63 watt ones just don't cut it. To keep
the cables short, you can put the PC box right under the UNIXpc.
28. Hard drive(s). After the HD board is in place, any drive up to 16 heads and
1024 cylinders will work. If you want to use a drive with more than 1024
cylinders, you will need to replace the WD1010 hard disk controller chip
with a WD2010, and get a new diagnostic disk. Please refer to previous
postings to these groups for more information on selecting a hard drive.
Note: For now, only two (2) hard drives will be supported by UNIX. If you go out
and buy four Maxtor 2190 hard drives, you will only be able to use two of
them at a time. You'll just have to ship the other two to me :)
Procedure:
1. Shut down UNIX.
2. Turn the power off.
3. Unplug the power cord at the machine.
4. Put on the wrist strap.
3. Unplug everything. This includes serial (you may need a small screw driver),
parallel, phone, keyboard (there is a little clip, like the phone lines).
4. If you have an expansion box, the long cable can not be disconnected at the
UNIXpc or the box, so the controller card in the UNIXpc must be removed.
There are two tiny phillips screws on the plate, next to the cable. Any
other expansion cards do not need to be removed.
5. Remove the two phillips screws on the back that fasten the plastic to the
metal frame. These are next to the fan grates, towards the middle, up under.
6. Remove the plastic caps on the two posts where the keyboard sits, and remove
the two screws. Ahhh, so that's why those are there!
7. Remove the top, plastic part of the case. This is easier said than done.
There are two or three rachet hooks in the plastic of the case at the very
front of the machine. These latch into the sheet metal base where you can't
see. It takes two hands to lift up on the case, and two hands to pry the two
or three rachets ALL at the same time. If you get the rachets loose, don't
let the case fall back down or they will click back in. At this point the
back of the case will already be loose. No, you can't just lift the back up
far enough, there's wires still connected. Once the rachets are loose, lift
the platic case, monitor and all straight up about 4 inches. Be surprised at
how much that *#&@$ monitor weighs. Tilt the whole mess straight back so
that the monitor is laying on it's back, screen up. You will have to lay it
down quiet close to the back of the machine because there is a video cable
and three power wires still connected. Go ahead, scream and yell, that was a
bitch to do.
8. Disconnect the video cable. There are two screws holding the video cable
down. One is up on a piece of sheet metal in the back left corner. The other
one is down on the left side. Follow the cable and you will find them. To
disconnect the cable itself from the mother board, do not just pull, reach
in and grab the connector. You all do this with power cords, right?
9. Disconnect the brown and blue power wires from the socket/fuse assembly.
Sometimes these get chewed up in the fan, so check them for damage and tape
if necessary.
10. Disconnect the green plastic covered braided ground wire. Sometimes you
can get it off on the fuse assembly side, sometimes you need to remove the
screw on the power supply side. The top plastic with monitor attached is
now free. Let that snickering fool next to you pick it up and see how heavy
it really is and move it out of the way.
11. Remove the three screws that hold down the large, flat metal plate on top.
They are located at the very front of the plate. The floppy and hard drive
and the power supply are bolted to this plate, so they must all be
disconnected in order to get the plate off.
12. Disconnect the power supply. There is only one connector, a big heavy duty
ribbon cable which plugs directly onto the mother board. Lift up one end
and then the other until you wiggle it off. This will give you enough slack
to get the plate up and vertical, so you can get at the floppy and hard
drive cables. When this connector get dirty, it can cause all kinds of
weird system failures. Increasing the load on the power supply or bumping
the machine can cause panics. To clean this connector, just pull it off and
put it back on a couple of times.
13. Disconnect the floppy power connector on the back of the floppy drive. This
is the small white plastic connector with four wires going to it.
14. Disconnect the hard drive power connector on the back of the drive, same as
the floppy power connector. If this power cable comes directly from the
power supply and not the mother board, then you have a 3b1 and can leave
it connected.
15. Slide the plate forward. Examine where the back of the metal plate hinges
into the bottom sheet metal. There are two pins in the plate that fit into
upside-down T slots in the base, one on each side. The pin is sitting in a
groove in the back of the T. The idea is to lift the plate a little, then
slide it all the way past the middle, to the front of the T. Note that this
part of the base is frequently bent, and may need to be bent back into
shape before the plate can be moved around.
17. Tilt the plate up. Once the plate is all the way forward, it can be tilted
all the way up vertical. WARNING: it may FEEL secure when it's vertical, but
it is VERY close to balancing, so get someone to HOLD IT vertical or tie it
that way!
16. Disconnect the floppy ribbon cable (the wide, flat one) at the mother board.
Remove it the same way as the power connector.
17. Disconnect the two hard drive ribbon cables at the mother board. You should
not have to unbolt anything on the plate. The ribbon cables should still be
connected to the drives.
18. Get the plate all the way off. Untie the plate and swing it carefully back
down flat. Lift the plate up and get it out of the front groove, then slide
it back into the middle groove. Once there, slide it up and out of the T.
Once again, it likes to jam here, so you will need to lift both sides
evenly. You may need to bend the T part a little to get the plate to slide.
Set the plate aside carefully, your hard drive is on there!
19. Take a break, get a soda, oogle the mother board and ALL THOSE DUST BUNNIES!
I can tell, you're picking dust bunnies already. Just get the big ones off
now, you can blow all the little stuff off OUTSIDE when the mother board is
out. Now for a quick tour of the mother board. (coordinates in parentheses)
The BIG chip in the middle is the 68010 (14E). The two wide chips together
in front of the 68010 are the boot ROMs (14C and 15C). The wide chip to the
right is the 6850 serial chip for the keyboard (13G). The purple chip with
two lids on the right side next to the power cable is the WE 882A switched
capacitor modem chip (2K). The rows of chips in the front right corner is
the main memory (2A to 10H). Now look on the left side. If there is a large
L shaped PC board ON TOP of the mother board, you have a VERY old machine.
This board contains all the discrete logic that's in the three custom chips
on the newer mother boards. If you have the L shaped board, then changing
the battery can be quite complicated. If you don't have it, the 3 wide, 40
pin chips with VLi on them are the custom chips. The one to the left of the
boot ROMs is the video chip (17C). The other two are the DMA dat and DMA
address chips (22E and 22H). I don't know which is which. In the back left,
the chip with WD1010 or WD2010 is the hard disk controller (21H). Straight
back from that is the 7201 serial chip, which provided two serial ports, one
for the serial connector on the back and one for the on-board modem (21M).
Immediately to the left of that is the WD2797 floppy disk controller (22M).
I am looking at a newer mother board which has a floppy controller made by
VLi (VL2797). In the far back left corner are three empty IC sites (25-27P).
The one all the way on the left is 27P, where the P5.1 socket will go. You
may have a small trimmer resistor on the right one (25P). Older boards don't
have this trimmer, newer ones have it at 22P. This trimmer is for an added
floppy adjustment (you need a scope and instructions to do the adjustment).
On left side in front (under the L shaped board if you have it) Is the
battery (~27E). Your battery may be a cylinder or flat shinny thing. There
have been several postings on how to change the battery. There is a
removable jumper right next to it, which can be disconnected to save the
battery when the machine is being stored. You'd do all this to disconnect
the battery, wouldn't you? You can see the four LEDs (four? see HwNote01)
right along the left edge, in front (~28B). In the back right corner, under
the tin, is all the yucky stuff for the phone: transformers, relays, caps,
fuses, optoisolators (1M to 12P and 13P to 21P). The video RAMs are the
four chips at 14A, 15A, 16A and 17A. The memory mapping RAM is the fours
chips at 19C, 20C, 21C and 22C. There are various numbers about the revision
level of you mother board along the left edge in back and behind the speaker
volume control along the right edge, in front. I think the most important
are the ones next to the volume control. The bar code is the official
tracking serial number of the board, and there is a REV x sticker here.
20. Remove the little plastic clip on the volume control, right side, in front.
This is done by getting it up and off the actual volume control and sliding
it all the way to the back, where it will come out of the metal base. The
clip and the post coming out of the volume control are wimpy plastic, so if
you break it, you will be stuck with the volume in one position!
21. Remove two phillps screws on the sides in back.
22. Remove two phillips screws on the bottom in back.
23. Remove 10 phillips screws around the edge of the mother board.
24. Remove 4 hexagon posts in the middle of the mother board.
25. Remove the mother board. Grab ahold of the short metal plate in back and
pull straight back. Careful! You will be pulling the mother board out of the
edge connector at the front of the machine. You also have to get the back
metal plate loose. Sometimes this gets bent and jams. Break each side loose
without bending the plate, then wiggle the back of the mother board around
gently until you're sure the plate is loose. Pull straight back to get the
mother board out of the bus board edge connector. Lift the mother board out
of the base by the back plate and the power connector. Put it down on the
anti-static mat. Pick up the base and set it aside.
26. Remove the two hex bolts from the serial and parallel connectors. Use needle
nose plyers or a small adjustable wrench. The back plate will fall off with
the last one. Take it off and put the 4 hex bolts back into the serial and
parallel connectors so you don't loose them. Put the back plate with the
base.
27. Check your watch and see if you have 2 to 6 hours free to be soldering on
the mother board. Now is a good time to take the mother board outside and
blow the dust off. DO NOT USE A VACUUM CLEANER ON IT!!! Most vacuum cleaners
generate stupendous amounts of static electricity. Be careful with air
compressors, they can embed a metal shaving half way into the board or blow
it right out of your hand onto the floor. Little (expensive) canned air
things (for FAX machines and cameras) are ok. I just exercise my lungs and
blows on it. I'm serious about going outside. Check through the dust and try
to determine what kind it is and where it's coming from. The problem with
dust is not usually conductivity, although it can be, but rather that most
dust is a good insulator. It can keep air flowing though the machine from
getting to the chips and cooling them off. Some of the nastier things you
may find are sawdust, talcum powder, paper dust, copier toner and lint.
This is also a good time to track down someone familiar with soldering and
board patching. You may be able to get them interested enough to do the
work for nothing. Another thing about the mother board, it is a 6 layer
board. One on the top, one on the bottom, two for signals inside and two
for power and ground inside (power planes). All the UNIXpc mother boards
have a "layer map" on the back edge on the left side, near 26P. A layer
map is an area where a number has been placed on each layer of the board,
so when you hold it up to the light you can see a number on each layer. The
older mother boards did not have numbers on the power planes. The small bus
board is an eight layer board and has a 2 by 4 matrix in one corner.
28. Clean out 27P and bypass cap. Find chip location 27P. It's in the far back
left corner. If there is already a socket here, it is probably the P5.1
upgrade socket. If you know it is, follow along and check all the wiring
you've got. If your mother board has not been upgraded to P5.1, There will
be no chips or sockets or anything, just 20 holes, soldered shut, two rows
of 10. Slightly offset will be two more holes. Clean out all 22 holes. By
"clean out", I mean to use the soldering iron and solder sucker to remove
the solder in the holes. For those of you who don't know what a solder
sucker is, it is a syringe sort of thing with a spring inside and a Teflon
tip. One uses a solder sucker thusly:
a) Cock it to load the spring. This can usually be done with one hand.
b) Heat a solder joint which is to have the solder removed.
c) Put the tip of the solder sucker on the other side of the board or right
next to the soldering iron tip.
d) Wait for the solder to melt.
e) Push the trigger on the solder sucker.
f) Hope the solder sucker didn't slip and that the joint was hot enough.
g) Hold the solder sucker over an ash tray or trash can and cock it again,
ejecting the cooled solder.
Solder suckers come in lots of different shapes and sizes. Little ones with
little springs suck a little and can be quite frustrating. I use a big one,
Soldapullt model DS017. Big ones can suck the solder right off the IC pin
from the other side of the board, right through the plate through. There are
some real fancy desoldering stations that have a special soldering iron with
a hollow tip and a vacuum system. I have never had the pleasure of using one
of these, but I hear they're great. Whatever method you choose, if you
haven't done this sort of thing before, get a scrap PC board to practice on.
Get a board with ICs on it, and practice desoldering a pin, breaking it
loose from the hole and pulling the pin out of the hole without breaking it.
29. Install the bypass cap. The bypass cap is a kind of localized surge sponge.
It holds a tiny amount reserve electricity which can be used by the chip it
is next to. This make the chip work better and keeps noise away from other
chips. It's really a lot more technical than that. Note the polarity! These
things don't work and BLOW UP if you put them in backwards. The plus side
is next to pin 20 of 27P (27P-20). See figure 1, below for a description of
each of the holes. This is another part which is not that critical to the
HD board, but is for the P5.1 PAL.
27P
GND -> O O <- +5
1 O U O 20 <- +5
O O
O O
O O
O O
O O
O O
O O
O O
GND->10 O O 11
_____
Figure 1. Pin numbering and layout for 27P
30. Install 20 pin socket. Examine the socket for something to indicate which
way is up. There should be something to indicate where pin 1 is. There may
be a nick in the plastic or a dot at pin one, or a U on the end where pins
1 and 20 are. Examine sockets elsewhere on the mother board for hints on
how to find pin 1. This makes no difference electrically, it just looks
stupid and can be confusing when its in backwards. Refer to figure 1 for
how to install the socket. Find some way to hold the socket onto the board,
flip the board over and solder pins 10 and 20. There are two basic ways to
solder wires on the pins. One is to attach a wire with needle nose plyers,
then solder it. Another technique is to solder the pin first, wrap the wire
around the little bit of pin sticking through the solder, then heat the wire
and solder and push the loops into the solder. I use both methods, depending
on the situation. If you prefer the loop-melt-push idea, then solder all the
socket pins down. When doing this, alternate pins around the socket to keep
the board from overheating. Remember to keep the routing of all wires away
from the mounting hold (the ones with shinny squares around them)
31. Add a wire from 27P pin 12 to 27P pin 1. Adding a wire goes like this:
a) Strip a piece of wire wrapping wire.
b) Bend a loop in it.
c) Solder it to the first pin.
d) Choose a route for the wire from the first pin to the second.
e) Cut the wire.
f) Strip it.
g) Bend a loop in it.
h) Solder it to the second pin.
All the wiring, except for the last bit is done on the bottom of the mother
board.
32. Add a wire from 27P pin 12 to 27P pin 1
33. Add a wire from 27P pin 2 to 26G pin 10 (/PHSTAT)
34. Add a wire from 27P pin 4 to 27P pin 19
35. Add a wire from 27P pin 8 to 27G pin 13 (/MCR2SEL)
36. Add a wire from 27P pin 9 to 21M pin 2 (/RST)
37. Add a wire from 27P pin 4 to 22H pin 7 (D4) see figure 2.
38. Add a wire from 27P pin 7 to 22H pin 11 (D0)
39. Add a wire from 27P pin 11 to 27P pin 10 (GND)
40. Add a wire from 27P pin 17 to JH1 pin 2 (/HDSEL3)
At this point you have finished all the "P5.1 Field Service Upgrade" wiring.
If you have P5.1 PAL you can: (optional)
a) Partially reassemble your machine. You don't need to connect the hard
drive(s).
b) Boot the diagnostics disk
c) Wait for "Type any key to continue.", press enter.
d) Enter "s4test" at the "Choice( 1-7 ):" prompt.
e) Enter "V" at the "expert>" prompt
f) If the first line of the message is "DIAGNOSTICS - Main Board P6", then
the P5.1 PAL has been detected. This does not mean that it works, it
just means part of the cicuitry is working.
The rest of the instruction are only for the hard disk upgrade board.
|
|
O O O O O O O O O O O |
O O O |
O O O O |
\ /
`--------------'
__________________
_________________ `-----------O [D0]
-----------O [D2]`--------O [D1]
--------O [D3]
------------------------------O [D4]
O O
------------------------------O [D5]
O O
O O
O O
_____
Figure 2. Feed through holes used for access to D0 to D5.
41. Add a wire from 27P pin 3 to 22H pin 8 (D3)
42. Add a wire from 27P pin 5 to 22H pin 9 (D2)
43. Add a wire from 27P pin 6 to 22H pin 10 (D1)
44. Add a wire from 27P pin 18 to 22H pin 6 (D5)
45. Add a wire from 27P pin 15 to 16M pin 6 (HDWRDATA)
46. Add a wire from 27P pin 10 to 27P pin 13 (GND, use 20 gauge bell wire)
47. Add a wire from 27P pin 13 to 27P pin 16 (GND, use 20 gauge bell wire)
That's it for the wiring on the bottom of the board. If you have the wire
glue, don't put it on yet, everything still has to be tested.
48. Bend up 14M pin 3. Now you have to hope and pray. Examine the hard disk
data separater PAL at board location 14M. You're in luck if it is socketed.
Don't despair if it's soldered in. If 14M is socketed:
a) Remove it from the socket.
b) Bend pin 3 out to the side carefully.
c) Replace the PAL in 14M
If yours is soldered in, you have a newer mother board, probably with more
than 512k, you scum bag. Here is what you need to do:
a) Hold the mother board up on edge.
b) Put the solder sucker on bottom side of the board, under 14M-3.
c) Heat the side of the pin until the solder melts, wait 1 WHOLE second.
d) Fire the solder sucker.
e) See if you can see light through hole.
f) Use a dental tool to break the pin loose from the side of the hole. You
may hear a click when it breaks free.
g) From the top of the board, bend the pin up out of the hole. Try to keep
the bending force as far away from the chip as possible. You may hear the
click of the pin breaking loose at this point.
h) Straighten the pin out so it's horizontal. If the skinny part of the pin
breaks off, so big sweat, just find it!
Another method is to just clip the pin at the board. This requires a VERY
fine set of cutters that have te cutting edge right on the face. If you
have access to such a tool, it is definately quicker. Just make sure the
pin is really cut AND pulled away from the mother board.
49. Do the DRUN patch. When data comes off the hard disk, it must go to two
different places, the data separater PAL (14M) and the DRUN one-shot (13N).
On most UNIXpc mother boards, the data stream to 13N comes from 14M. This
was the only way to implement the second hard drive data stream selection
feature of 14M. The problem is, it caused the data to be syncronized, which
is the job of 14M. Unfortunately the data going to the DRUN one-shot must
not be syncronized for the DRUN signal to be generated properly. The fix is
to ignore the second hard drive feature of 14M and run the raw data stream
directly to 13N. Almost all UNIXpc mother boards have been patched to fix
this. The patch consists of cutting 13N pins 1 and two from the mother board
and running a wire from 13K pin 3 to 13N pin 2 (the raw data stream) and a
wire from 13M pin 7 to 13N pin 1 (ground).
If you have the patch:
a) Cut the wire from 13K-3 to 13N-2 right at 13K-3.
b) Pull the wire up if it's glued down.
c) Strip the end.
d) Bend a loop in it.
e) Attach and solder it to 14M pin 3.
If you do not have the patch:
a) Solder suck and bend up (or cut) 13N pins 1 and 2.
b) Add a wire from 13M pin 7 to 13N pin 1.
c) Add a wire from 13N pin 2 to 14M pin 3.
50. Attach one side of the twisted pair to 14M pin 3.
51. Attach the other side of the twisted pair to 13M pin 7 or 13N pin 1.
52. Pull up the tin behind 13N and feed the twisted pair through one of the
holes and over to the corner by 27P. Tie or tape the twisted pair onto the
vertical part of the tin down at the 27P end.
53. Cut the twisted pair to the appropriate length and then some (any rope cut
to length...) Solder a double pin onto the ends of the twisted pair.
54. Plug one end of the 20 pin header into the mother board, the other end into
the hard drive upgrade board. Note pin 1. Total disaster if you get it
backwards!
55. Plug the double pin on the twisted pair into the "G R" pins on the HD board.
Make sure the 14M-3 side goes in the "R" side and the ground side goes in
the "G".
56. Plug the 34 pin double female header cable into the mother board (JH1). Plug
the other end into the top 34 pin header on the CHIP side of the HD board.
57. Plug the 34 pin header, edge, edge, ... cable into the top 34 pin header on
the NON CHIP side.
58. Plug one of the 20 pin header, edge cables into JD1. Plug the other end into
Hard drive 1. Repeat for other hard drives: JD2 to drive 2, etc.
59. Make sure the drive on the edge, edge, ... cable FURTHEST down the cable is
the only drive with a terminating resistor in it.
60. Make sure each hard drive has the proper select code corresponding to the
JDx connector it's using.
61. Connect the hard drives to the power supply.
62. Follow simple test under step number 40.
63. You didn't get "...P6"? Oh, too bad. Your machine won't boot from the hard
drive? Oh too bad. Remember all those pins you clipped...
Other topics to be covered:
1. Common wiring errors 26G & 27G.
2. Bottom side pin numbering is reversed.
3. If 14M is fried use equation to get another burned.
4. Debugging in general.
5. Details of the 2,x and 6,x stuff in expert mode of diagnostics.
6. System admin stuff: mkfs /dev/rfp012, mklost+found, /etc/checklist,
/etc/mountable
Admittedly, this got real terse towards the end :) Please send me your comments,
opinions, spelling corrections, etc. Thanks a lot for reading through all this,
I can get a little long winded at times.
Sheesh 500 lines! (now)
Boy it's late, I mean early. Shit I've got to go to work tomarrow, I mean
today, yeah I've got to get up in two hours...
John
--
John Bly Milton IV, jbm at uncle.UUCP, n8emr!uncle!jbm at osu-cis.cis.ohio-state.edu
(614) h:294-4823, w:785-1110; N8KSN, AMPR: 44.70.0.52; Don't FLAME, inform!
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